This is the real affordable-taco deal: griddled chopped meats tucked inside corn tortillas with an array of salsas, served in a no-frills setting with few seats, no beer, no free chips, Mexican soap operas, and no apologies. Unexpected treat: the hamburguesa tortuga: a superlative burger topped with ham, cheese, pineapple, lettuce, tomato, and a piquant sauce, best paired with a side of hot cheesy fries with pickled jalapeños.