From soaking in burbling hot springs on the roaring Colorado River to relaxing in a tiny home village with Mount Massive views, iconic adventures await those who venture beyond the fringes of the valley’s tony resorts. Vail and Beaver Creek mountains are unquestionably stunning when meadows blossom with wildflowers, but there’s more to summer than uphauls on chairlifts accessing hiking and mountain biking trails. Namely: a trio of mountain towns firmly rooted in the Wild West, with ample diversions for the discerning, modern-day explorer. 

Discovery Awaits  

Glenwood Springs  | Red Cliff | Leadville 
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Glenwood Springs

Get there: From Vail, drive 40 miles west on I-70 to the canyon’s entrance just past Dotsero.

Thanks to millions of years of natural carving by the Colorado River, 16-mile Glenwood Canyon stretches the neck and drops the jaw with towering walls of crimson granite, dark green pine trees, and the tumbling turquoise and white of the river itself. Anchoring the west end of the Vail Valley’s grand canyon is the Town of Glenwood Springs, a frontier oasis (initially named “Defiance”). Incorporated in 1885, it found fame as a Western haven for well-heeled travelers seeking solace in soothing hot springs and sanitariums. 

Relax & Explore

First discovered by the ancient Ute Indians and revered for their healing, mineral-rich waters, Glenwood’s geothermal pools have treated trail-weary souls for millennia. The oldest and most famous, Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, consistently finds itself among SpaFinder’s top 10 thermal spring spaces in the world. And for good reason: After adding a splash pool for kids and renovating its therapy pool in 2019, then opening Yampah Mineral Baths (at the world’s largest hot springs pool) last May, the resort recently completed a renovation of all 107 guest rooms at the resort’s lodge, and on June 12 will debut Hotel 1888, a boutique inn with 14 luxurious rooms (formerly Spa of the Rockies), quartered in a restored  19th-century stone bath house. Lodge rooms start at $309; 
Hotel 1888 rooms from $439. 

Like Glenwood Hot Springs, Yampah Spa & Vapor Caves was discovered by the Utes and was frequented for centuries for the healing powers of its natural steam—including by Wild West protagonist Doc Holliday, who spent the last weeks of his life here in 1887 (the sulfur-rich springs and caves didn’t cure his tuberculosis, however, and his body is buried in an unknown location somewhere around town). Cave and soak experience, $60. 

Likewise, the riverside oasis Iron Mountain Hot Springs served as a sanctuary for the Ute and as a commercial spa for a century before it closed in 1996. It reopened under its current name in 2015. Last summer, the resort debuted WorldSprings, an adults-only annex featuring 13 new pools replicating the mineral content of iconic global hot springs destinations, from Iceland’s Blue Lagoon to France’s Vichy Waters, and even a pool with a waterfall inspired by The Dead Sea; an on-site bar adds animation to the experience, especially as evening rolls around. Three-hour soak from $44. 

From roller coasters and a giant canyon swing to laser tag and fairy cave tours, Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park has pretty much everything a family with kids (or kids at heart) needs for a thrilling and unforgettable day above the clouds at the United States’ only mountaintop amusement park. All-access day passes from $62. 

Arguably the most popular hike in Colorado—and for good reason—the rocky, hourlong trek up to Hanging Lake is rewarded with a postcard-pretty scene, complete with a waterfall tumbling into an aquamarine pool set beneath an amphitheater of cliff walls. Reservations are required to park at and hike the trail, and Hanging Lake Trail is closed for construction through July 1. 

Glenwood Canyon Recreational Trail is probably the flattest ride in the mountains! And, of course, the head-cranking scenery never stops. Take note: The trail is often closed when the Colorado River gets surly with spring runoff. 

As majestic as the Colorado River may be, whitewater purists could argue it’s best known for its vistas, not its rapids. And while Glenwood’s may not be as grand as Arizona’s, you also don’t need to win a lottery to raft it. Just hire a guide from Glenwood Adventure Company. Starting on the east end of the canyon at the Shoshone hydroelectric power plant and ending at a takeout on the west end, in Glenwood Springs, this stretch allows guests to appreciate how tall and steep the canyon’s rock walls are. Generally, kids ages 7 and older (and weighing more than 50 pounds) are welcome, but depending on flows, they might have to skip the first section, which includes Class III rapids, and join at Grizzly Creek—a put-in for a mellower section appropriate for whitewater-squeamish adults and kids who are younger and smaller. $74 per person, 2.5-hour trip. 

Eat/Drink  

Referencing the Amtrak station directly across the street,  the best seats in the house at The Pullman are on the patio outside, for people watching and trainspotting. 330 Seventh St

Possibly the liveliest scene in town for both humans and canines, Casey Brewing’s patio is always buzzing, and the list of brews is lengthy, but for hazy IPA fans, the Citra Says Go hits the spot in summer. 711 Grand Ave

Sleep

In the late 1800s, Walter Devereux, a Princeton-educated geologist turned silver baron saw in Glenwood Springs the opportunity to build a luxury hotel and European-style resort and spa along the Colorado River that he called the Hotel Colorado. Presidents (William Howard Taft and Teddy Roosevelt) and celebrities (like Molly Brown of Titanic fame) slept here. And you can too. Under new ownership, the hotel rejoined the Historic Hotels of America, a group of iconic hotels across the country that, in Colorado, includes The Broadmoor and the Hotel Boulderado. In 2022, after a $10 million makeover, it was restored to its 1893 splendor. Double occupancy from $183. 

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Red Cliff

Get there: From Vail, head west on I-70 to Dowd Junction to Exit 171, then go south on US Hwy 24 for 10 miles; just before crossing the green bridge, turn left on High Street, a two-lane road leading into town.

Eagle County’s smallest town is famous for its iconic Green Bridge. Built in 1940, its status as one of the only two steel-arched bridges in the state landed it on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s also a popular photo stop; it’s not unusual to see a small swarm of cars crowding the worn pull-off at the hairpin turn.

Red Cliff used to be Eagle County’s seat before it moved to Eagle in 1922. Many of the town’s 279 residents can count the area’s early homesteaders as familial relations, while others are newcomers fleeing the crowds in the valley (and the incessant hum of I-70). A handful of creatives (like papermaker Helen Hiebert, who welcomes visitors with advance notice) have even converted classrooms at Town Hall (a decommissioned public school building) into art studios. Real estate prices have escalated more recently, and a few sleek steel-and-glass townhomes have conspicuously taken root among the modest single-family clapboard cottages predating Gilman, the abandoned mining town just down the highway.

Aside from a single restaurant and inn, there’s not much to do here (the dirt track at the east end of town serves as a gateway to Shrine Pass), but once you sip a pint on the rooftop patio at Mango’s after hiking Shrine, you’ll understand why Red Cliffers consider themselves lucky to call this overlooked corner of paradise home.

Explore

From Red Cliff’s back door, Shrine Pass Road winds 11.2 miles through alpine meadows and stands of pine to the top of Vail Pass at I-70. During peak blooms in early to mid-July, Shrine Pass is one of the most stunning places to see Colorado wildflowers, producing a high-wattage display of columbines, Indian paintbrush, and alpine daisies amid green meadows and secret-feeling glades. You’ll find plenty of primitive camping spots along the dirt road. If you prefer a bunk, try Shrine Mountain Inn, a network of privately owned huts (Jay’s, Chuck’s, and Walter’s) that can be booked through the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association (from $32; 970-925-5775, huts.org). If you’d rather brap around Shrine Pass on a side-by-side, Rocky Mountain Adventure Rentals operates a concession in Red Cliff; just keep in mind that you’ll encounter a fair amount of traffic during the summer months, especially on weekends. From $429/half day. 166 Eagle St

Two miles south of Red Cliff’s Green Bridge, off Highway 24, Homestake Road (Forest Road 703) is a relatively flat Jeep road (suitable only for high-clearance vehicles) that winds through meadows and thick stretches of pines in a glacial valley. After a steep climb, the road dead-ends abruptly at Homestake Reservoir, a perpetual pool of snowmelt that provides water for the cities of Aurora—just east of Denver—and Colorado Springs. Since this is someone’s drinking water, no swimming or motorized boats are allowed. You can paddle a canoe or kayak out on the reservoir, but you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to reach the boat launch, as the road is extremely rough for the last quarter mile. You can also camp at primitive sites scattered along the road; just be aware that these fill up fast on weekends, and you’ll need to follow any fire restrictions once you pitch your tent for the night. 

Just 13 miles south of town off Highway 24, you won’t want to miss the opportunity to soak up Camp Hale, a fascinating swath of Colorado’s hero-building past. In the winter of 1944, this windswept, open area was used to prepare ski troopers of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division for battle in the European Alps. Camp Hale-Continental Divide National Monument, which President Biden officially designated during a visit in 2022, covers 53,000 acres of national forest land, including the site of a decommissioned World War II army base. Situated in a broad, flat basin about three miles long and one mile wide, the former training grounds (aside from roads, only a few foundations and stone buttresses remain) are a gateway to trailheads and dirt tracks snaking through the mountains. In summer, you can explore the area on foot, mountain bike, side-by-side, or ATV (for motorized tours and rentals use Nova Guides, 

Park near the main entrance, where the first of 10 educational stops on a self-guided loop around Camp Hale begins. 

Eat/Drink  

Sunset pints at Mango’s Mountain Grill are a rite of passage, so expect an authentic crowd amassed on the bar’s rooftop patio for happy hour fish tacos and local suds as the alpenglow paints the surrounding cliffs. 166 1/2 Eagle St

Fine dining set in a tent that requires a mile-long trek into Colorado’s backcountry? Sounds like a risky idea for a restaurant. Yet from a mountainside perch off Highway 24 (7 miles south of Camp Hale and 10 miles north of Leadville), the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse has been luring adventurous diners to hike in and feast in the subdued intimacy of a candlelit yurt since 1994 (at press time, longtime owners Ty and Roxanne Hall were preparing to hand off the business to another generation of caretakers). E Tennessee Rd, Leadville

Sleep  

If you want to spend the night in Red Cliff, Green Bridge Inn is your only option, and on your right as you pull into town—you’ll know it by the distinctive green trim and clock tower at the front of the building. Rooms from $159. 

Two miles down the highway beyond the Green Bridge, Chalet Homestake View, a gorgeous European chalet commands the hillside above the turnoff to Homestake Road. There’s a reason that the gemütlichkeit of the chalet elicits wonder and seems so entirely authentic: Two winters ago, it was prefabricated in a European workshop, flat-packed in containers, shipped across the ocean, and assembled in a few weeks by a team of three Austrian master carpenters. Since then, the handy homeowners, Diane and Bryon Gaston, have been busy finishing the interior spaces of their off-the-grid Euro-chic chalet. This summer, the Gastons are finally ready to welcome their first guests. Bonus for starry nights: a glamping dome experience. From $400, three-night minimum, sleeps eight.

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Leadville

Get there:  From Vail, head west on I-70 to Dowd Junction to Exit 171, then head south on US Hwy 24 for 31 miles.

At 10,152 feet above sea level, North America’s highest incorporated city was a high-society silver town during the Centennial State’s 19th-century mining boom, and its downtown, stretching eight blocks of Harrison Avenue, still has an air of Wild West grandeur. Back in the day, Doc Holliday, John Philip Sousa, Butch Cassidy, “The Unsinkable” Molly Brown, and even Harry Houdini were known to stroll Leadville’s main drag, which runs between neat rows of brick Victorian buildings backdropped by prominent views of the state’s two tallest peaks, Mount Elbert and Mount Massive.

Leadville has seen multiple transformations over the years. The 1982 depletion of the Climax Mine nearly ruined the town financially, but it led to the inception of the Leadville 100—one of the first-ever 100-mile endurance runs—which has gone on to become one of the world’s premier ultramarathons and spawned a series of summertime trail runs and mountain bike races.

Recently, a block of sleek, landscaped condos on the outskirts north of town was built atop an iconic mural (“WE ♥ LEADVILLE ~ GREAT LIVING AT 10,200”) that for more than 30 years welcomed a steady stream of recreationists ascending Highway 24 every summer, who now stop for selfies at Howard Tritz Park, where a re-creation of the landmark now stands.

Shop  

The holy grail for outdoor gear buffs is Melanzana, where tattooed young men and women behind industrial sewing machines can been seen toiling day and night to stock (and restock) shelves with the brand’s ridiculously popular Micro Grid Hoodie (which fetches up to a $100 premium on eBay, thanks to far-flung shoppers who beg locals to ship them). Reservations to shop (and buy) are required. It’s worth a visit, if only to pine and appreciate the law of supply and demand—at press time appointments were booked out months in advance. 716 Harrison Ave

Eat/Drink  

For gourmet dinner fare, the place to eat is Treeline Kitchen, a welcome upscale addition to the main-drag dining scene that plates simple yet elegant entrees like Colorado lamb pasta braised with red wine and fried chicken with creamed spinach greens; the best seat in the house (on the rooftop terrace) comes with one of the state’s most dramatic mountain views. 615 Harrison Ave

Claiming to be the world’s highest brewery, don’t let the fact that it resides in a former gas station put you off. Two Mile Brewing’s views of the Collegiate Peaks will make your head spin and luckily most of its brews are fairly low on the ABV chart, so you’ll still be able to enjoy them. The joint has a nice selection of tasty snacks (chicken tenders, mozzarella sticks) too. 101 Harrison Ave

Sleep  

The Historic Delaware Hotel has been hosting guests since Leadville’s days as a mining boomtown. Just be warned. According to some guests not everyone from Leadville’s bygone days has checked out. From $123. 

Tiny House Leadville is one of the newest, more affordable, unique, and hip lodging opportunities in town. It’s a collection of 14 tiny homes clustered in a park behind Two Mile Brewing, with views of Mount Massive and Mount Elbert. Some are pet-friendly, and all are adorable. From $158.

Explore  

If climbing a fourteener still sounds like a bit too much on the lungs (even with the elevated head start), the Mineral Belt Trail, an 11.6-mile paved recreational path, offers a surprisingly relaxed bicycling option (rare in this hill-rich town) past old mining ruins, wildflowers, and pine forests.

The scenic Leadville Railroad chugs through the San Isabel National Forest on two 2.5-hour daily excursions throughout the summer (10 a.m. & 2 p.m., $59/adult, $36/child). Book a special wildflower tour for a mid-ride stop-and-hike with a local guide to see the midsummer flora at its peak, followed by lunch at Leadville’s historic Healy House in downtown (July 19 & 26, and August 2, 10 a.m., $91 per adult, $70 per child). 

No tour of Leadville is complete without a visit to the National Mining Hall of Fame, a fascinating museum with diversions for young and old, including a dinosaur footprint, model railroad, geodes as big as your head, dioramas, and a walk-through replica of a working mine. Don’t miss: hourlong guided tours of the Matchless Mine on Fryer Hill, where you can relive Leadville’s glory days and take in the tragic tale of Horace and Baby Doe Tabor. $15.

Hands down, the most entertaining time to take a trip to Leadville is the first weekend in August, when the town celebrates its rich mining history with an event called Boom Days. While the roaming bandits are just actors, the burros are very real and compete in a series of zany races down Main Street. A quirky parade, a gun show, and a motorcycle rodeo round out the madcap fun.